Rock climbing around Melbourne:
Grampians (sport climbing)
Once you’ve sampled the boulders of The Grampians, you can’t help but look up and beyond. There’s kilometres of cliff-line, and it’s packed with some of the highest quality sandstone rock climbing in the world. To foreign climbers, the historic Taipan Wall features perhaps the best known rock climbing routes in Australia. With a grade 26 buy-in, and a minimalist bolting ethic (that even had Chris Sharma a touch wobbly), it’s definitely not for the novice – but we can all watch longingly from afar.
For those of us who are more comfortable in the lower grade brackets, there’s still plenty to do. The Gallery is packed with intermediate routes, with funky features protruding on a steep wall on stunningly coloured rock. Then you’ve got the more obscure little gems like Weirs Creek – a preferred option for the newer rock climber’s venturing out into the outdoor climbing realm.
Trip report: Lucy Stirling
Last year (2017) I spent 5 weeks down in the Grampians around late March and into April which is usually a perfect mix of not too hot, and not too cold weather. My boyfriend Alex and I lived in our van and spent our days mostly sport climbing and bouldering on the amazing sandstone.
In my opinion, the Grampians is home to probably the most prime sandstone the world has to offer. There is so much to do there and so much variety.
For sport climbing Taipan, wall was an obvious favourite for us, but I also loved The Gallery in the southern Gramps. I was lucky to onsight an amazing route there called “Monkey Puzzle” (28). Another area we enjoyed a lot was Muline with the mega classic route “Eye of the Tiger” (29) which Alex and I were both happy to send during our time there.
There is so much left to do in the Grampians and I can’t wait to make our next trip back there soon.
Keen to climb in the Gramps? TheCrag.com is a free, collective climbing database with route information, photos, beta and more.
Check it out here.